We needed to get away from Columbus, Ohio since we hadn’t gone anywhere all summer. So, I booked flights to Boston where we would continue on to Acadia National Park. I really wanted to take the Amtrak train to Portland, Maine. Unfortunately, that train was cancelled early September for track maintenance. There was a regional bus for $30 which took a little over 2 hours. The free water and pretzels were nice. I would recommend flying into Portland so you can have more time enjoying it.
There’s something magical in the air here that tempts me to return and explore this city more. Yes, there is a Mystic District that boasts 3 magical shops on one street!
Courtesy Google
However, we were too exhausted to explore the dark arts on our first night and opted to check into our spacious and cozy room at the Hyatt Plaza in Old Port. Our first stop for dinner was Eventide to savor fresh oysters.
We accidentally discovered our next course at Duckfat while we wandered down Middle St. The duck fat taste in the fries was distinctive and pleasing. My favorite sauces were Truffle Ketchup and Horseradish Mayo.
Before heading northeast in our Enterprise rental car to Bar Harbor the next morning, we had some time to explore Congress St. a major road in the heart of downtown Portland. It has many coffee shops, art installations, unique buildings, speciality stores and cool plazas. Portland is the largest metropolitan area in northern New England with a rich history.
The Henry Wadsworth Longfellow Monument at the corner of State and Congress St. (Longfellow Square) honors the poet by the same name. He was born in Portland in 1807. Wadsworth was a traveler, a linguist, and a romantic who identified with the great traditions of European literature and thought.
We met one fellow who was collecting signatures for a petition to urge Senator Susan Collins to vote against Supreme Court nominee Bret Kavanaugh. We know how that turned out. Her opponent in the 2020 election will have an extra 2 million dollars for their campaign, thanks to energized Mainers.
The drive to Bar Harbor via I-295 and I-95 was quick until the last hour. Once we crossed Trenton Bridge, (actually a causeway now), we were finally on Mt Desert Island.
We checked in at Hearthside Inn. Hosts Brian and Catherine were exceptionally welcoming and knowledgeable. They made each breakfast special. One morning I told Brian we wanted to see Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. He promptly marked on a map over a dozen must-see places on our way there!
Only a few blocks from our lodging, the shore path offers a great view of Bar Harbor and Mount Desert Narrows. You can start from Wayman Lane or Agamont Park.
The Island Explorer has shuttle buses with 10 routes to virtually all points of interest in Acadia National Park. They run every 30 minutes, passing through Village Green, in Bar Harbor. Since 2002, L.L.Bean has donated over $3 million to Friends of Acadia to support the Island Explorer and Acadia National Park.
We caught an orange Loop Road #4 shuttle to get to Sand Beach. There you can hike the 1.4 mile (2.2 km) Great Head Trail which is rated as “moderate” and loops around the perimeter of the small peninsula called Great Head located on the east side of Sand Beach. I wish we had gone back to see it one more time!
Don’t miss the view from Otter Cliffs up the road!
At the Sand Beach shuttle stop, catch any shuttle bus to get to Jordan Pond. While there, you can hike the Jordan Pond Nature Trail (an easy stroll through the evergreens) and the Jordan Pond Shore Trail (a more difficult trek along the rocky coast). The crystal-clear waters mirror the surrounding mountains. The nearby Jordan Pond House Restaurant serves soups, lobster rolls and its signature popovers and tea.
Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, at 1,530, is the highest point along the North Atlantic seaboard and the first place to view sunrise in the United States from October 7 through March 6. The free shuttle buses do not go up to the top of this mountain. Fortunately, It was only a 15 minute drive in our rental car. This was an awesome place to contemplate the vast panorama of water and coastline to the east. Both times we were blessed with clear skies.
Bar Island is directly north of the West Street town pier in Bar Harbor. At low tide, the island is reachable by foot. Once on Bar Island there is a spectacular view of Mount Desert Island with Bar Harbor in the foreground (except when it’s foggy). Look for Bridge Street on the north or ocean side of West Street to cross the sand bar.
Before going, check the local times of low tide so that you will not get stuck on the island. Plan on having no more than a maximum of 1.5 hours before and after the low tide. If you do get stuck on the island and don’t want to wait about 12 hours until the next low tide, there is a rescue boat service, for only $500!
On our way to the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, we spent part of the morning exploring Thuya Garden which is located on Route 3, near the northeast corner of Northeast Harbor. If you love gardens and natural settings along with some local history, then Thuya Garden will definitely leave an impression! We hiked up the trail from the parking lot on Peabody Drive, number 1 at the bottom of the map. Entrance to the garden is a suggested $10 donation. And yes, there are restrooms! The gardens are meticulously tended and one might see some of the myriad butterflies and hummingbirds that are attracted to the area. Be sure to stop inside Thuya Lodge (number 8) to enjoy the amazing collection of gardening and landscaping resources, as well as the early botanical watercolors upstairs.
We had a light lunch at Asticou Inn on the back porch overlooking a hill down to the shoreline. Somehow we still had an appetite for another popover. Across the main road was Asticou Azalea Garden, The design ideas for the Asticou Azalea Garden show some resemblance to a Japanese stroll garden but one that was designed for a coastal Maine setting. The garden is meant to inspire serenity and reflection and creates an illusion of space – of lakes and mountains and distant horizons.
We finally made it to Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse.
Evidently, the view is better from a vantage point closer to the water. (courtesy Google)
Our favorite restaurants: McKays, Havana
Our first dinner in Bar Harbor was at McKays, about a 5 minute walk. A folk guitarist serenaded the patio crowd while we sat next to a cozy outdoor space heater. I totally enjoyed my clam chowder followed by fish and chips! Michael had the duck cassoulet.
We went to Havana on our last night in Bar Harbor. The mussels were wonderful. Havana is a classy, colorful spot for upscale dinners featuring a contemporary blend of Latin & American food.
We really lucked out with the weather. However, I think it would have still been worth going to Acadia National Park, even if it rained every day. This is a place to recharge your soul and gain some inner solace.
epicrambler 
Beautiful blog. Bravo. I’d be all over those poppers. Thanks for sharing.ð
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