Christmas in Old Town Warsaw

My first experience in Old Town, Warsaw,  Poland was a couple of years ago on a frozen, sleeting, icy Christmas Eve. The lights, the hot mulled wine, and the desserts made the trip all the more worthwhile.

The Royal Castle, plac Zamkowy, Old Town, Warsaw
The Royal Castle, plac Zamkowy, Old Town, Warsaw

Old Town dates back to the 13th century.  It was totally destroyed in World War II and later rebuilt to faithfully replicate the original structures.

Old Town Square
Old Town Palace Square

Map of plac Zamowy (Palace Square)

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Old Town Market Square
A very slick Krakowskie Przedmieście, part of the Royal Route
A very slick Krakowskie Przedmieście, part of the Royal Route

 

Royal Route was established in the 15th century as a trade route and is one of the oldest avenues in Warsaw.

 

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Christmas fantasy lights cheer up the folks at the bus stop
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Presidential Palace
My favorite place for espresso and pastry
My favorite place for espresso and pastry
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Cafe Baguette
Old Town Market Square with Mermaid Fountain
Old Town Market Square with Mermaid Statue

 

The Mermaid Statue is a very important symbol in Warsaw.

“According to legend, a mermaid swimming in from the sea stopped on the riverbank near the Old Town to rest. She found the place so admirable that she decided to stay. Local fishermen living nearby noticed that something was creating waves, tangling nets, and releasing their fish. Although their original intention was to trap the offender, they fell in love with the mermaid upon hearing her sing. Later, a rich merchant trapped the siren and imprisoned her in a wooden hut. A young fisherman heard the mermaid’s cry and with the help of his mates, released her, whereupon she declared her readiness to offer fishermen her help whenever it would be needed. Ever since, the mermaid, armed with sword and shield, has been ready to help protect the city and its residents.”  warsawtour.pl

Old Town Market Square Christmas Village

The preferred method to stay warm is drinking hot mulled wine which helps you stop feeling the cold (or anything else)!

Hot mulled wine with orange slices
Hot mulled wine with orange slices
Some accordion music to cheer you up
Some accordion music to cheer you up
Christmas desserts and rolls
Christmas desserts and rolls
Give your feet a break!
Give your feet a break!
Warming up inside
Warming up inside
Blueberry pierogis
Blueberry pierogis

 

Warsaw Old Town Tree Lighting and Celebration

Memories of the Old Towns in Warsaw, Krakow, Gdansk…

When I think of Warsaw, I think of Christmas.

Wesołych Świąt!

Merry Christmas!

Bay of Fundy’s dramatic tide change, pie and scallops

“The Bay of Fundy (French: Baie de Fundy) is a bay on the Atlantic coast of North America, on the northeast end of the Gulf of Maine between the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, with a small portion touching the U.S. state of Maine.

The Bay of Fundy is known for having the highest tidal range in the world. Rivaled by Ungava Bay in northern Quebec, King Sound in Western Australia, Gulf of Khambhat in India, and the Severn Estuary in the UK, it has one of the highest vertical tidal ranges in the world. The Guinness Book of World Records (1975) declared that Burntcoat Head, Nova Scotia has the highest tides in the world:

‘The Natural World, Greatest Tides: The greatest tides in the world occur in the Bay of Fundy…. Burnt coat Head in the Minas Basin, Nova Scotia, has the greatest mean spring range with 14.5 metres (47.5 feet) and an extreme range of 16.3 metres (53.5 feet).'” –Wikipedia

located between New Brunswick and southwestern Nova Scotia
Located between New Brunswick and southwestern Nova Scotia

It is difficult to grasp the incredible vertical change of water that occurs on average every six hours and thirteen minutes. At low tide you can literally walk out miles on the sand in some areas.

At Blomidon Provincial Park (http://www.novascotiaparks.ca/brochures/blomidon.pdf) north of Wolfville, one can see the clay sand flats and stunning red bluffs, which I even spotted from the airplane when we departed from Halifax!

Red flats at Blomidon Provincial Park
Red flats at Blomidon Provincial Park
View to the southeast  from Blomidon Provincial Park
View to the southeast
how far out would you go?
How far out would you go?
600 foot clay/sand cliffs
600 foot clay/sand cliffs
View from the Lookoff on Gospel Woods Road  across from Look-Off Full Menu Restaurant
View from the Lookoff on Gospel Woods Road

While at the lookoff, stop in for snacks and refreshments at the Look-Off  Full Menu Restaurant across the street. They have great ice cream!

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Map of Cape Blomidon
Map of Cape Blomidon

Farther west at Baxters Harbour, low tide makes it possible to explore some interesting terrain.

Black Hole
Baxters Harbour
Aerial view of Baxters Harbour paulillsley.com
Aerial view of Baxters Harbour
paulillsley.com

It is even cooler to watch the time lapse view!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fcf7q7BpfXM (courtesy of Annapolis Valley Audio Visual)

Enjoying the view of southern shoreline of the Bay of Fundy
Enjoying the view of the southern shoreline of the Bay of Fundy

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Halls Harbour
Halls Harbour

Before you leave this area, be sure to make a stop at Halls Harbour. Here is proof of the 40+ feet tide change!

Boats have to wait until high tide
Boats have to wait until high tide
Six hours until the boats can enter
Six hours until the boats can enter

I loved Halls Harbour Lobster Pound. Dessert with coffee is great any day of the year!  http://www.hallsharbourlobster.com

Banana cream pie
Coconut cream pie

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And about those scallops…

Digby, famous for its scallops
Digby, famous for its scallops

About 140 km to the west in Digby, one must try some of the tasty scallop dishes and see the docks full of scallop trawlers.

Scallop kebob over bed of rice
Scallop kebob over bed of rice
Digby Harbor
Digby harbor on Annapolis Basin
Sunset at high tide
High tide at sunset

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In some ways, life’s cycles are like the dramatic tide changes of the Bay of Fundy. You don’t know how far you’ve risen until you actually see how low you’ve been. Tide changes give you perspective.

Or to phrase it more eloquently:  “Always believe something wonderful is going to happen. Even with all the ups and downs, never take a day for granted. Cherish the little things and hug the ones you love.”  –Anurag Prakash Ray

Zurek (sour rye soup) in Poland

“The sour rye soup is a soup made of soured rye flour (akin to sourdough) and meat (usually boiled pork sausage or pieces of smoked sausage, bacon or ham). It is specific to the cuisines of Poland and Belarus, where it is known as żur or żurek (diminutive). A variant made with wheat flour instead of rye is known in Poland as barszcz biały (“white borscht”). In Poland it is sometimes served in an edible bowl.”  Wikipedia

zurekbreadbowl
Zurek soup in rye bread bowl

I could have this soup every day for the rest of my life. One can typically get these for 2-3 USD. I had this particular bowl at Gospoda Pod Kogutem in Old Town, Warsaw. http://gospodapodkogutem.com.pl/index.php?action=katalog&view=176

Zurek soup ready in the bread
Zurek soup ready in the bread

Inside there are two hard-boiled eggs and several slices of white sausage. Of course, the rye bread is part of the meal!

Perfect for a cold night!
Perfect for a cold night!

Usually, however, zurek is served in a bowl, but has the same effect on my palate. It is a comforting, hearty meal that makes me feel like I’m back in my mother’s kitchen!

Turkish tea in Istanbul

view of Bosphorus from terrace restaurant at Anadolu Kavagi
view of Bosphorus from terrace restaurant at Anadolu Kavagi

“Turkish tea, called çay (pronounced Chai), is black tea which is consumed without milk, is produced on the eastern Black Sea coast, which has a mild climate with high precipitation and fertile soil. Turkish tea is typically prepared using two stacked kettles (çaydanlık) specially designed for tea preparation. Water is brought to a boil in the larger lower kettle and then some of the water is used to fill the smaller kettle on top and steep (brew) several spoons of loose tea leaves, producing a very strong tea. When served, the remaining water is used to dilute the tea on an individual basis, giving each consumer the choice between strong (Turkish: koyu; literally “dark”, tavşan kanı (literally: rabbit’s blood) — a deep brownish red or weak (Turkish: açık; literally “light”). Tea is drunk from small glasses to enjoy it hot in addition to showing its colour, with cubes of (Turkish: kesme şeker) beet sugar.”   Wikipedia

Single servings of tea generally cost 2 TL (1 USD). Tea service for two or more people goes for 8 TL.

tea service at terrace restaurant near Topkapi Palace
tea service at terrace restaurant near Topkapi Palace

This tea is delicious and I enjoyed a beautiful view of the Bosphorus Strait while getting a nice caffeine buzz.  The terrace restaurants sit on the northeastern hill down from Topkapi Palace. You can find the restaurants by walking to northeastern part of Gulhane Park and turn right by the gate and go up hill.  There are several restaurants to choose from.  All have great views!

view of Bosphorus while enjoying several cups of tea
view of Bosphorus while enjoying several cups of tea

I would highly  recommend sharing the large tea service with someone. It’s strong enough to give you tea jitters.

There is an even better view from Konyali Restaurant, but that is only accessible by  entering the Topkapi Palace museum. It is closed on Mondays!  http://www.konyalilokantasi.com

konyali

Fried goat cheese in Zakopane, Poland

zakopianski (fried goat cheese with cranberry sauce)
zakopianski (fried goat cheese with cranberry sauce)

In southern Poland’s Tatra Mountains in the city in Zakopane, one can taste smokey fried goat cheese with a cranberry sauce topping. One serving of the small zakopianski costs 2 PLN (about 60 US cents) and is sold outdoors from carts all along Krupowki Street which is pedestrian only for several blocks.

cheese grill

One is not enough. Maybe you should have two, or three…

fried goat cheeses

or maybe try some larger ones.

World AIDS Day

worldaidsday

This event was started in 1988 to foster greater awareness of HIV and AIDS and the effort to put an end to the epidemic. About 34 million people worldwide have HIV.  In the USA, it is estimated that 1.2 million persons are living with HIV and one-seventh of this group are unaware they have the virus.

I am glad that people can live full lives by using antiretroviral drugs (ART). This has become a manageable chronic disease as long as one adheres to the meds. While there still may be stigma for being positive, people living with HIV can carry on with their dreams and passions.

It’s never too late to start a blog

I am thankful to my dear friend Vineet for encouraging me to start a blog about journeys.  We had just traveled to Istanbul where he ran the marathon which started in Asia and ended in Europe. Actually, I had wanted to start a blog many years ago, but needed a friendly nudge! But what kind of journey would I write about? We all have our journeys in life: emotional, mental, financial, physical,  and yes, even travel away from our homes. When I was a teenager, I dreamt of traveling far from home to capture  some adventure that I believed I was missing. Now, four decades later, I am still traveling, but not just physically.  The journey within is a lot more challenging, but necessary and profound.

Inside The Blue Mosque
Inside The Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

“Built in only seven years (1609-1616) by the architect Mehmet Aga, who also rebuilt Kaaba (the holiest shrine of Islam–  the giant black cube at the center of the mosque in the holy city of Mecca). The locals call it the Sultan Ahmet Mosque for the ruler who financed it, but travelers know it as the Blue Mosque because of the rich blue color of the handmade ceramic tiles that dominate the interior.”  Rick Steves

I am awed by the serenity I felt in this grand Islamic site of worship. Although I was raised in the Eastern Orthodox Church, I felt a connection with this place.

 

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.  Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”  

Mark Twain